1
Narita

We’ve arrived in Japan!

We flew into Narita and stayed the night there before making our way to the other major Tokyo airport in Haneda to fly to Hokkaido.

We spent the morning in Narita strolling to a large temple complex and adjacent park.

There were a lot of animal statues lining the road toward the temple.

The park had numerous shrines or possibly graves that looked quite old.

Japan is known for its vending machines. I’ll try to capture as many different ones as I can along the way.

The local McDonalds delivery car.

2
Sapporo

We’ve been getting to know Sapporo the last few days.

There are many large Koi in a river adjacent to where we’re staying.

Apparently, special cakes for Christmas are very popular here. Places that make them are starting to take orders.

It has some fun architectural touches.

Soufflé pancake break! Unique from any other pancakes we’ve had before.

We toured the Sapporo beer museum.

A vending machine specializing in merchandise related to a bird found only on Hokkaido.

The path we took down.

Our first Ramen which was miso based.

There’s a lovely park adjacent to the shrine.

There is a cute coffee truck in a park near where we’re staying.

They have ironing boards for tables.

We visited an interesting park called Morenuma park with a man made mountain called Mt. More. This is the path we took up the hill.

In the museum gift shop they were selling these Pringles. We passed on this flavor.

In central Sapporo is an Eiffel Tower looking structure called the Sapporo TV tower. We took the elevator to the top observation deck for a view of the city.

Tasting at the end of the tour. I had a cold tea made of corn. It tasted like corn! It was not sweet. Very interesting!

Lots of beers made here over time sent all over the world.

There are some fall colors starting in this park as well.

View of another park feature, a glass pyramid, from the top.

But we did have lunch there at a restaurant where customers grill their food at the table. Hence the bib.

Fall colors are just starting.

The Hokkaido Jingu Shinto shrine entrance.

Cute cat art in a subway station.

3
Otaru

We spent a day in Otaru, about an hour along the coast from Sapporo. It’s known for a scenic canal, seafood, and producing music boxes and glass.

Old warehouses along the canal have been repurposed as newer businesses.

The seafood market had the biggest crabs I’ve ever seen. They were enormous. They had a several foot leg span.

There was a lot of other seafood as well.

There was a super cute bakery that focused primarily on creations that incorporated rabbit themes.

A fun roofline and street lights.

Melons are very popular, as is soft serve.

Enticing ramen option.

Cute art for the cat people ❤️

We opted for a break with cakes and tea at a patesserie called Le Tao.. Strawberry cake and a Mont Blanc (Chestnut paste, cream and a macaroon like cookie).

Vending machine of the day: chicken dinner!

These are some of the examples of glass items we saw.

This was the music box museum which was 90% retail and 10% history. They had music boxes in every imaginable shape and size and price point with soooo many songs, all playing randomly together.

4
Jōzankei

We visited our first Onsen hot springs town, Jozankei and enjoyed a soak, lunch and fall colors.

Below is the entrance to to hotel where we soaked in thei onsen pools. There aren’t any photos allowed in the pools, but they were lovely and relaxing.

Art in the Onsen.

There is a striking red suspension bridge over the river that runs through town.

Bento boxes.

An interesting fire escape in town.

These were our desserts at lunch. Miso pudding and a cleaver custard with mango and passion fruit made to look like an egg.

And some nice strolls in the woods to get to the bridge.

More unique vending machines.

5
Goryokaku Park

One of the unique places in Hakodate is the Goryokaku tower, park and fort. This is one of the two notable towers on Hokkaido, the other is the one we visited in Sapporo.

At the fish market here there are many shops serving fresh seafood bowls. These are all very realistic versions in plastic as examples for customers.

Taking a soft serve break. Jessee got half and half vanilla and chocolate and I got melon. Yum!

The fort.

Many rooflines.

Halloween themed mochi!

The park and fort from the top of the tower. It’s outlined by a moat in the shape of a star. There are apparently a number of these types of forts throughout the world.

Mt. Hakodate at sunset.

The Hakodate art museum is adjacent to the fort and had some examples of calligraphy in different styles.

Looking the other direction from the tower to Mt. Hakodate.

Our first sushi dinner.

More melon flavored snacks.

6
Onuma Quasi-National Park

We visited our first national park of the Trip: onuma Quasi. It includes a large lake with dozens of floating islands and an incredible view of a still active volcano.

Mt. Hokkaido Goma-ka-take in the background.

There are bridges that connect paths between the floating islands.

There are boat tours.

Lots of fall colors.

Some interesting flora.

There is a trail to the rim.

Our ride back to town.

A transportation option in the town supporting the park entry.

Like in the US, each park has a stamp that can go in a stamp book.

And fun paddle boats.

7
Mt. Hakodate Observatory

We took a taxi to the observatory at the top of Mt. Hakodate which has a great view of the city and geography of the area.

Mt. Hakodate and the observatory in the background.

Love the decorative manhole covers. The squid is the mascot for Hakodate.

Persimmons are in season.

Russian Orthodox Church.

So we gave it a try.

A greeter outside a restaurant.

Community center.

A number of streets slope down to the water with good views.

A popular Hakodate burger chain. The clown is a bit scary but people love it.

Old warehouses along the waterfront have been repurposed for retail and restaurants.

Lots of brick maintenance here.

Then we walked down one of the many paths to a neighborhood at the base.

Fishing boats.

The neighborhood at the base of the mountain has historical importance. Hakodate was one of three ports that opened to westerners after Japan had closed itself off from foreigners. Folks from the UK, Russia and the US came to live here, mainly in this neighborhood. The architecture is different as a result and there are a number of churches which aren’t super common here.

Episcopal church.

Who could resist the worlds second most delicious ice cream melon bread? Not us! Melon bread doesn’t have any melon in it. It’s shaped a bit like a melon and has a crispy crust! Shell and soft interior.

8
Aomori

We have relocated islands from Hokkaido to Aomori on the main island of Honshu. To get to Aomori we took a high speed Shinkansen train that goes several hundred feet under the ocean floor. It’s amazing! So fast.

Aomori has a busy waterfront with impressive bridges.

Sampling the Apple products. Apple and sweet potato tart and apple and cream cheese tart.

And no city is complete without a uniquely shaped observation tower!

For one of our initial meals we went to a fish market where you buy tickets used with any vendor to then buy fresh fish to put on rice. It was super fun. So much variety!

The rainy view that wasn’t the tunnel.

Aomori is also known for their delicious apples and orchards. Apple juice even has a dedicated vending machine in the train station.

The train stations have bento boxes to buy for your meal on board. They are specific and special to each station.

The city mascot.

Aomori hosts the Nebuta festival with amazing lanterns. These are on display in the train station.

A sun break.

And comfortable!

9
Nebuta Museum WA RASSE

We had a sampling of blustery fall weather with impressive wind and rain so sought out some indoor sights in Aomori.

The first is the museum dedicated to the amazing Nebuta festival held each August in which there is a parade and giant lanterns on floats carried by people, not vehicles. The floats are judged and the winning floats are placed on barges and travel along the waterfront.

From the videos it looks like quite an experience!

The museum has the winning floats from the prior year and explains the history and artistry. The building is pretty cool on its own.

And inside.

We also went to the art museum. The first 4 gigantic paintings are backdrops for a stage for a ballet called Aleko that was produced in the 1940’s in New York. They were painted by Marc Chagall.

Another giant piece is a statue called the Aomori dog. Maybe sad that it’s having sprouts for dinner.

A cute minibus shuttle from the art museum back to the train station.

Pie and tea break!

Smaller pieces.

We had a fun dinner at an atmospheric restaurant with lanterns both outside…

The focus of the floats is on famous people from the past and mythical beings.

10
Oirase keiryū Gorge

After the blustery day in Aomori, we headed up over the highest pass in the area to find snow! We were on our way to Oirase Gorge, a sublimely beautiful wonderland of woods and river, for a walk. We were in good company with dozens and dozens of tour buses of people come to see the gorge during the falll colors.

We walked along the trail next to the river for several hours.

Some fun flora.

I love the snow on just one side of the tree trunks.

A video of the view from the front of the bus. A tunnel of leaves and snow.

The trail mascot (the shape of Aomori prefecture I think).

Our lunch break spot.

A truly special place and amazing day.

There were many gorgeous waterfalls.

Sunset and alpen-glow on the fresh snow as we headed back over the pass.

There wasn’t any snow in the gorge at the lower elevation.

11
Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura

Vía múltiple buses and trains we’ve transitioned from Aomori to Nikko, a town west of Tokyo with many historic shrines and a past residence of notable Samurai and the emperor. It definitely has the most tourists of anywhere we’ve been so far.

This is one of the trains we took after everyone disembarked.

There was a really fun ninja performance that unfortunately didn’t allow photos.

As part of Halloween, some of the employees were dressed up as supernatural beings called Yokai.

There was also a parade with the Geisha group.

There were spiritual aspects.

And food like these mochi balls.

Attendees can opt to also dress in period clothing for the day. I love this modern day Samurai dad…

Pot sculpture.

This was a magic show with water.

This was a play about Geisha.

These are train snacks on another train with assigned seats. They are rice triangles. One with tuna and mayo in the middle and one with kelp and sweet soy sauce in the middle. Perfect travel food.

Did the house or the tree come first?

And we grilled our own rice crackers.

And fun crafts and art.

Our first day in Nikko we went to Edo Wonderland. It’s a theme park focused on the 250+ years of the Edo period of great prosperity and peace. They kindly provide a shuttle bus as it’s a bit out of town.

There were many experiences on offer like swordsmanship, ninja training, archery, indigo dying, etc. It was a fun day and we learned a lot about this period of Japanese history.

Fun street light.

There are impressive buildings, many of which are theatres that have shows throughout the day.

Video of parade below.

The shows are historical but also incorporate humor and audience participation. They are completely in Japanese so we didn’t always know what was happening but they were fun nevertheless.

This was a play about politics.

All the other employees were in period dress including this group of ninjas.

And hungry Koi and natural settings.

12
Nikko

We took a nice walk in Nikko to a shrine with dozens of statues honoring the same diety.

There are over 160 rooms and lots of views to the gardens outside.

Some of the sliding doors feature beautiful paintings.

Bonsai for sale.

The shrine and statues overlook a river.

Apparently there are bears in the area!

A shrine along our walk dedicated to rabbits.

Mailbox embellishment.

Daikon just harvested hanging from a neighbor’s car port.

And there is intricate metal work throughout.

Funny neighbhood sign.

I love the decorative manhole covers.

Strawberry pound cake.

There is a lot of moss and mushrooms.

We also visited one of the prior residences of the emperor that is now a museum and exemplifies 3 architectural eras. Below is the room where the emperor worked with a desk and chair.

13
Nikkozan Rin’nōji Temple

Nikko has an abundance of amazing temples, shrines and gardens.

This is a gate to the Rin’noji temple complex.

This tree was 400 years old when it was brought to this temple several hundred years ago. It gets lots of support.

Lots of cats are incorporated into signage.

Little jars of pudding/custard.

Sake containers.

Neighborhood shrine.

So much moss!

Freshly harvested Daikon hanging on a neighbor’s carport.

Rin-noji temple.

Each has a distinct label.

Cheesecake and matcha latte break.

Goju-no pagoda.

Super cute and quite delicious.

Some lovely colors.

14
Zenkōji temple

We have moved on to Nagano, prior host of the Winter Olympics, in the Japanese alps.

This was one of the trains we took to get here.

The gate to the temple. It was a national holiday in this day, Culture Day, so likely a bit busier than normal. A lot of visitors!

A war memorial with the ashes of millions of people inside.

We visited the Zenkoji temple complex. This was a small building on the path up that I stopped at to admire the persimmon tree.

Amulets that visitors use to write wishes on. They are uniquely designed at each temple.

We ducked out of the rain to visit the Nagano Prefectural Art Museum which had an exhibit of Higashiyama Kaii. His art is beautiful! The piece below was a practice version of a mural he painted in the imperial palace. It covers a huge wall.

Fountain floaty baubles.

There is a story about a raccoon dog who became a monk to bring a lantern to the temple. These statues are related to the story.

A different artist using woodblock, also focused on fall.

There are so many cartoon creature worlds we’re unfamiliar with that have stores filled with related merchandise.

His trees reflect the amazing fall colors we’ve been seeing.

The temple.

The Nagano manhole cover design.

Leaving the temple.

The top of an incense burner at the temple.

Smaller versions.

And cute food like these sponge cakes with chestnut dipping sauce.

15
Snow Monkey Park

We visited the snow monkey park about an hour from Nagano. There’s a half hour or so walk along a trail to get to the park.

People can also soak in nearby pools in this complex. The monkeys are free to join in if they want.

A monkey mascot.

Apple turnover break!

Sunset from the bus window.

This is their soaking pool. Pretty deluxe in terms of scenery.

Some gorgeous fall colors along the way.

The Macaque monkeys are native to most of Japan. In this area, the park puts out food to attract them and have built them a hot spring pool to soak in when they are cold in the winter. They choose when to be in the area and typically live higher up in the mountains. There were dozens in the park area on this day.

Larch trees. One of my favorites!

16
Matsumoto Castle

We spent a day in Matsumoto, about and hour train ride from Nagano.

Matsumoto has a very historic and distinctive castle. It is mostly black which is uncommon. It’s surrounded by a moat.

Sunset colors from the train station.

After the castle we went to a miso factory. We took a tour and had lunch. The company president, who is the 6th generation of family ownership, gave the tour. The large metal pot was used for boiling soybeans up until the 1990’s.

It was a great place to stroll around.

Miso soup makings, dashi bouillon and miso paste. This is the best miso soup I’ve ever had.

The carp on the roof are supposed to ward off fire.

Lovely garden with a persimmon tree.

And vending machines.

Samurai suit of honor.

And is put in this delicious ice cream.

Creative drainage.

The castle grounds was hosting a Chrysanthemum competition. These were huge!

First year miso cedar vats. The miso, which is soybeans, rice bran and salt, ferments for 3 years in a series of vats.

Castle visitor stamps.

Statue of a frog reading a book.

The Matsumoto art museum has a permanent Yayoi Kusama exhibition. She grew up there. It’s an amazing exhibit but largely doesn’t allow photos so there are just a few.

A couple other paintings in the museum that I liked.

A friendly Samurai greeter.

As usual, there are unique man hole covers.

These are chrysanthemum plants trained into bonsai over one season. They were gorgeous.

17
Togakushi

We spent a lovely day on part of the Togakushi pilgrimage route between 5 temples. We walked from the uppermost shrine down to the middle shrine with a beautiful lake and fall colors along the way.

This lake is known for the beauty of the reflections of scenery on still days. It was a bit breezy while we were there.

Larches!

Soba (buckwheat) noodles and tempura for our post walk dinner. Yum!

A beautiful beetle along the way.

There are a couple of guardians at the gate.

And a lot of maples of different hues.

The middle shrine.

Tori that lead up to and away from a small shrine along the route.

The uppermost shrine is known for the avenue of huge hundreds of year old cedars that line the path. They are impressive!

18
Odawara Castle

We have moved on to a city named Odawara south of Tokyo. It’s close to Hakone which is known for its views of Mt. Fuji and for many many Onsen fed by hot springs in the area.

We’re staying about a 15 minute walk from the Odawara castle. It’s an impressive recreation of a castle here that was destroyed. The present one was built in the 1960’s.

Below the castle is a shrine.

The castle houses a collection of Samurai armor.

A neighborhood shrine with lots of foxes inside.

We crossed a river on our way to the port area of Odawara and spotted this heron.

Perfectly coated!

Unique use of umbrellas.

I love the moss on the ties of this fence.

A couple more unique vending machines.

We came across a shave ice place where rather than shaving ice, they shave frozen fruit. It’s served with a small container of condensed milk to pour over it. We got peach and strawberry. It was delicious!

Restaurant/market in the port area.

We haven’t seen many building murals in Japan. \240This is the first.

19
The Hakone Open-Air Museum

We enjoyed a walk through the Hakone Open-Air Museum sculpture park.

Video below…

This was a kids play area.

And foliage

The most fun was this stained glass tower.

They have some fun interactive pieces.

A few sculptures.

With a super cool net play scape.

Cool bamboo.

Looking down the spiral staircase.

Trippy final piece.

With a spiral staircase up the middle inside.

View from the top looking down on a hot spring foot bath.

20
Ōwakudani Station

A day of many modes of transportation in pursuit of views of Mt. Fuji.

First, a cloudy view from our first bus to Hakone.

And the first view of Mt. Fuji!

And saw almost all of Mt. Fuji.

Then a train to Gora.

After a quick walk through Gora park.

Then ropeway # 2 down to Ashi Lake.

And some beautiful sunset clouds.

And a curry lunch

Where we caught a lift on a pirate ship across the lake.

Then Ropeway number one to the Owakudani station at the top of a volcanic crater.

Then a cable car up.

Then our last bus back to Odawara. Quite a circuit!

21
Hakone Yuryo

We took a bit of a break and had a soak at an Onsen in Hakone. This Onsen has private as well as public baths. We booked a private one so I was able to take photos.

This is the Onsen entry.

Our changing room.

Signs of harvest around the Onsen.

The shower and soaking pool.

We had Inari Sushi and little sweet adzuki bean filled Mt. Fuji shaped cakes.

Pretty little arrangement.

Snacks that we got at the train station. The packaging here is great.

22
Osaka Castle

We have transitioned from Odawara to Osaka. Mt. Fuji was still hiding a bit on our train ride south. Possibly our last view of it for the trip.

A huge moat.

Amazing stonework.

There is also a shrine next o the castle.

And very well maintained and pruned trees!

A Shinkansen speeding by in this video as we were waiting for another one.

Holiday lights starting to appear.

Osaka castle. It’s impressive!

A lot of gold embellishments.

The first Osaka manhole cover.

Unique vending machine in the train station that juices apples on demand.

23
teamLab Biovortex Kyoto

We had a fun day visiting the Teamlab Biovortex museum in Kyoto. It’s hard to describe what the museum is. Interactive immersive experiential art? Regardless of the label it was very fun.

Below is Part of the gigantic Kyoto train station. These are 11 stories worth of stairs.

The 11 stories of stairs at the train station lit up at night.

A cool tree outside the museum.

Looking over to the observation tower.

Lots of incorporation of mirrors.

This is the first room we entered off the main pathway in the museum. It was my favorite. Photos don’t really do the exhibits justice so there are a few videos.

Lots of interactive things.

The tower at night.

Lots of projections.

24
Katsuoji

About an hour outside Osaka in the mountains is a temple called Katsuoji. The setting and buildings are beautiful and deserving of a visit in themselves, but what really makes the temple even more special are the Daruma figures that are incorporated into the history of the temple.

There were some lovely fall colors.

And fall fruit including persimmons and quince.

The Darumas come in many shapes and have various expressions. Pilgrims purchase a one of the larger figures which don’t have pupils in their eyes initially. The pilgrim colors in the right pupil and writes a personal goal (one short term to be accomplished in the next year and one long term that the short term goal feeds into) on the figure. When they accomplish the goal they color in the other pupil, bring the Daruma back to the temple and leave it \240as an offering.

It seems as though the smaller Darumas already have their eyes completed and pilgrims write a wish/goal on the figure and leave it at the temple.

There are thousands and thousands of Darumas all over the grounds. My understanding is that at the end of each year they are collected by the monks and burned in offering and the year starts fresh.

25
Nagai Botanical Garden, 1-23 Nagaikōen, Higashisumiyoshi Ward, Osaka, 546-0034, Japan

Fun sights in Osaka!

First is the entry into a nearby shopping arcade, one of the longest in Japan with dozens and dozens of shops and restaurants of all sorts.

There are a lot of interesting buildings!

Video below.

This is the Osaka Tenmangu shrine close to the end of the arcade.

The night was super still so there were fun reflections on the waterin the garden.

These were larger softer orbs. They also changed colors when pushed and emitted tones.

Jessee has been wanting to try Omarice, basically a fried rice omelet. It didn’t disappoint.

We topped off the day at another TeamLab exhibit. This one is an outdoor night light experience at a local botanical garden. It was really lovely.

These orbs were the only crossover with the indoor TeamLab experience in Kyoto. They change colors when moved and also emit sound tones.

Possibly my favorite exhibit. Taking the inflated noodle concept to a whole new level. So simple and so mezmerizing. Both are videos.

The Dotonbori area of Osaka is known for its neon and nightlife. There’s a lot going on here!

Video below.

A local specialty is spheres made of batter, scallions, and octopus cooked in cast iron molds.

Pond lanterns.

A very cool forest parade with a variety of creatures. Video.

26
Byōdo-in Temple

We took a day trip to Uji which is known for the Byodo-in temple and also for matcha from local tea farms. The Temple is a UNESCO world heritage site and also featured on one side of the 10 yen coin. It is also referred to as the Phoenix temple in relation to the phoenix statues on the roof.

And lots and lots of matcha. Not a traditional preparation but we enjoyed matcha lattes.

I love the bright green!

Lots of treats in Ugi including this stick with confections.

Persimmons.

Treats we brought back for dessert. Matcha pudding, pancakes filled with red bean paste and chestnut, a fruit paste confection.

The back of the 10 yen coin.

Matcha product vending machine.

I love the matcha pancakes highlighting the phoenix statues on the temple roof.

The temple is next to a river with some lovely bridges across.

The man hole cover design in Uji.

Our train back to Osaka.

So many options!

Curious wood statue.

In addition to the phoenix’s there are some great faces incorporated into the beam ends.

Sunset from the train station.

27
Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens & Ropeway

Day trip to Kobe! For a great view and Christmas Market we started off taking a ropeway up to the Nunobiki herb gardens which cover an impressive amount of a hillside looking down on Kobe.

A fun train seen on the way back to Osaka. Cats!

Doorman robot. Love the hat! We’ll call him Leonard for all the Only Murders in the Building fans.

Kobe ultimately meets up with Osaka. From up high it appears as one giant city.

Christmas decorations are in full swing here. They had hot chocolate, Gluwine, pretzels, etc. on offer.

Quick video below. Don’t mind the exit sign arrow reflection in the glass. 😜

There is an observation tower.

The loop bus for tourists looks like a trolley.

Kobe has one of the largest Chinatowns in Japan.

There is a glass house with tropical plants.

The waterfront is part entertainment and part working port. There are great pathways throughout.

And to cap things off we tried Kobe steak prepared right in front of us.

The view back down to Kobe.

We stopped for drinks and chips to see the sunset at a bar with a view.

There were still some flowers in the garden hanging on into fall.

Kobe had a lot of great utility hole covers.

Lit up buildings at night.

28
Shinsekai

We took a fun food tour with a local guide. We focused on food in the Shinsekai area of Osaka which is right next to the zoo. Hence the zoo animals on the front of a local arcade.

We had giant sumo bowls of sake.

The mural on the ceiling at the base of the tower.

We also saw the first cat cafe of the trip.

It’s a happening place!

There are also amusement park type games like archery and throwing ninja stars.

We went to 5 different restaurants with different local foods. The first was fish.

Then chicken wings and lemonade.

There is a lot of fun and big signage including this tribute to a local chef who was known for always being angry.

The view of the neon street from the top of the tower.

Lots of neon.

There were also udon and gyoza and skewers of fried foods including a fried mochi ice cream ball.

And of course a tower!

29
Saihōji (Kokedera) Temple

We had the opportunity to visit what I think is my favorite temple and garden so far, Saihoji temple and moss garden outside Kyoto. Thanks to a tip from a friend who visited recently, we made reservations well in advance. They limit the number of people in the temple so it retains a sense of peacefulness that is lovely.

All visitors start their time sitting in the temple using a calligraphy pen to copy a sutra on a piece of papar that can be kept as a keepsake and inspiration for the future, or left at the temple as an offering. The walk through the gardens afterward is truly spectacular.

There is an art installation if kimono fabric in illuminated poles at the train station.

The bamboo is impressive.

After the temple we headed to Arashiyama and the bamboo grove there that has become a tourist destination. But first, lunch! A Wagyu dog and rice porridge.

There is a river and park next to the bamboo grove where people can rent boats and paddle around.

There is a nearby temple as well with its own pretty garden.

30
Tetsugaku No Michi

A day walking along the Philosophers Path in Kyoto starting with the Ginkaku-ji Temple and gardens at the north end.

Sunset at the end of the path.

Sweet shrine plaque.

Cherry tree leaves. This must be gorgeous and packed in spring when they are blooming.They run along the whole way.

Temple guardian.

Ducks!

The Kyoto utility hole cover.

Fungus!

The temple complex from the hillside above.

Some sights between the temple and the Philosophers path. Rickshaws are available for hire!

Potato tornado break!

Dessert at Kura sushi, the conveyer belt sushi place that somewhat recently opened in Bellevue. Highly recommend for all the Washingtonians. It’s fun.

A Shrine along the way is focused on animals, especially mice.

The canal that the Philosophers path runs along for about 2 kilometers. It’s in a residential neighborhood and pretty mellow. Not huge crowds. Lots of shops and cafes.

A Heron fishing.

Sake containers.

31
Shitennō-ji

A day in Osaka visiting a couple temples and neighborhoods.

The first thmple is Shitennoji-ji. The temple is shrouded in scaffolding for restoration but the pagoda was lovely. The monthly flea market was also taking place with dozens of vendors which was fun to browse. A lot of art, glassware, kimonos, woodwork. It’s hard not buy and fill up spare suitcases.

There was a garden as well with lots of cherry trees and a couple Ginkgo trees as well.

Fun restaurant facades.

We had ice cream immediately.

Other sights walking around include these go-carts that people rent and drive around while dressed like caracters. I’d heard of this being a thing in Tokyo but apparently Osaka too.

The other temple we visited, Namba Yasaka, has a super unique building in the shape of a lions head.

This is an impressive multi-story rooftop garden at a shopping center.

Another fancy utility hole cover.

And other treats after dinner where we’re staying.

We couldn’t pass up Strawberry mania!

All the lanterns at the temple probably look impressive at night lit up.

32
Minoh Falls

We went on a walk through the forest fairly close to Osaka. It leads to a waterfall named Minoh Falls. There were thousands of people along for the walk. Fall leaf viewing is quite popular! It was also a holiday weekend which probably contributed to the crowds

Fun train decorations on the way back.

The cheesecake. It’s more like a soufflé. Very light and fluffy and eggy. Definitely worth trying!

There’s a cheesecake here which is very popular. We stopped and got one on the way back to our lodging. Below are ones just out of the oven.

There were some great utility hole covers along the walk. Yuzu is an important crop in the region and the Minoh mascot has a yuzu head.

The box.

33
Kinkaku-ji

We paid a visit to the Kinkakujicho temple in Kyoto. This is the golden pavilion. It is covered in gold leaf. Very striking!

Their phoenix guardian.

There was a peaceful tea house with indoor and outdoor seating.

Love the small islands in the pond.

Some lovely fall colors.

Sunset from the train ride back to Osaka.

Then went out for ramen 😀

We sat outside and enjoyed matcha and a sweet.

34
Kita Ward

A few random Osaka photos over our time here.

Hand painted utility hole cover.

A really wonderful soba lunch we had in the neighborhood we were staying in. One woth soup and one with tempura.

Treats at a bakery across the street from where we were staying.

Holiday origami at the grocery store.

Translation on this sign isn’t clear but it’s cute!

Delicious coffee place with a Hawaiian name. It means finished work. The time after work has ended and social fun can begin.

Treats we brought from the golden temple. Beautifully packaged as always.

I think this is the type of gourd that if allowed to dry becomes a loofah sponge. It was big!

35
Nara

We paid a visit to Nara which is a past capital of Japan and important center of trade and spirituality. Hunting and logging was banned in Nara hundreds of years ago so the forest in and around the city is quite old and there are many many deer who are quite accustomed to doing whatever they want. Vendors sell deer cracker that the deer love. If they see you with a cracker be prepared to be sought after.

A story related to the area involves a diety arriving here on a white deer. A reason why deer are not hunted here.

The temple has striking orange coloring.

Tori gate to the forest and mountain which are considered sacred.

There are dozens of stone and metal lanterns in and around the temple.. Each one is unique.

Stained glass window that I liked at a school.

The Nara utility hole cover.

This is soy milk ice cream with the cutest measuring cup of mango sauce.

Bento tray.

The deer have learned that bowing gets them more crackers. They are very good at it. See Jessee demonstrating in the video below.

Buddha bowl with falafel.

She loves cats and the profits go to cat rescue.

The cafe where we had an excellent vegan meal. It was run by one woman who did everything.

36
Joruri-ji

Passed by this festive mailbox in the town we’re staying in.

There are a number of very old rock carvings of Buddhas in the area including along the path we took.

Plant life.

Floating flowers.

Bamboo forest from the inside.

A lion figure guarding a house entry.

This is the pagoda at Gansenji temple.

Temple cat.

We took a bus to Gansen-ji temple a few miles away then walked through forest and villages to another temple called Joururjii. There were self serve farm stands along the way.

Gourd offerings.

And from the outside.

And pagoda.

These are figures in each corner of each level that are said to hold them up. Each is supposed to have a slightly different facial expression. These are unique to this pagoda.

The temple bell.

Part of the path to the next temple.

Joururiji temple.

37
Kasagi-dera Temple

We visited another temple near where we’re staying. The temple mascot is a cat. There is a sculpture at the train station.

Lunch at a restaurant near the temple.

Fruit for sale along the way.

The complex has some very large boulders with large Buddha carvings. This is just an outline waiting for a future Buddha.

Someone had fun with these pine cones in a hole in a tree.

The restaurant had a cute cat living on site and this stitched likeness of him was at the register.

After walking down the mountain we were early for the next train so stopped for dessert.

There was a lovely maple grove where people were picnicking.

Sign to the temple.

Autumn bounty.

At this very cute cafe.

The temple bell.

The flattest part of the path. The rest was quite steep.

The view from the complex at the top of the mountain.

We walked through town to get to the path up to the temple complex.

This is the cute logo on the path signs.

38
Wheeler’s Den Kyoto

A day spent walking around the countryside near where we’re staying. Lots of rice fields.

The local utility hole cover.i think it’s mushrooms, strawberries, yuzu and something I’m not sure of.

A chicken farm.

A happy figure on a house wall.

A small shrine.

The chicken coop in the yard of the house we’re staying in.

A bamboo forest.

39
Daimon Gate

We transitioned to Koyasan in Wakayama prefecture via a series of trains and an absolutely amazing cable car/ funicular.

Below is a train support vehicle seen along the way that looks like something in a Richard Scary picture book.

And the hill ahead. It ends at Koyasan station.

Which was lovely.

This is the second entry gate in Koyasan to the largest temple complex, Danjogaran.

There were a few fall colors remaining but since the town is at a fairly high place on the mountains the leaves had mostly fallen.

The temple bell.

This is the Daimon gate. The first entry to Koyasan which has approximately 117 temples with monasteries in a small town that is a few kilometers long and a couple kilometers wide. It was founded in 816 AD by a monk name Kukai, now know as Kobo Dashi, who founded Shingon Buddhism in Japan.

Bear warning sign. It looks a lot like a wombat! We miss wombats!

Each lantern is an offering to the temple on behalf of/ in memory of someone who has passed away. The practice, which is now fairly common, originated here in Koyasan.

We went back to the Daimon gate for the sunset.

It has a very sizable pagoda.

We took a walk in the evening when the temples are lit up.

This is the cable car. It climbs about 1,100 feet in 5 minutes.

Each has a unique inscription which isn’t visible in these photos.

A smaller pagoda.

Purification area near the entry.

40
Okunoin Cemetery

Sights from around Koyasan.

There are a lot of Buddha statues in town. This one is quite sweet.

With all the pathway lanterns lit it’s a special place to be at night.

Most grave markers are composed of these stacked shapes which represent the 5 elements: earth, water, fire, air, space/energy.

A few last leaves hanging on.

We took a meditation class at this temple/ monastery.

This was a sweet painting in the temple.

Another roof beam support person.

Dinner between meditation class and a night tour of the Okunoin cemetery. Yum!

Temple building dragon and animal adornments.

Okunoin is the largest cemetery in Japan with over 200,000 graves. The founding monk of Koyasan, Kobo Dashi, is believed to be in eternal meditation in a temple at one end of the cemetery. It is a common goal of most Japanese Buddhists to be at least partially buried here. A monk led the tour we went on and explained a lot about the cemetery.

The Japanese cedars are huge and range in age from 200 to 800 years old.

Jessee had many bowls.

Impressive Temple doors.

41
Okayama

Before leaving Koyasan a daytime trip to the cemetery was needed. This is a temple just before the cemetery entrance.

And a lot of trees. Some even growing out of the grave markers.

Monks leaving from a morning offering at Kobo Dahsi’s shrine.

After the morning in Koyasan we transitioned to our new base of Okayama. This is an array of bento box options at the Okayama train station. Check out the Shinkansen train boxes in the lower right.

Okayama has several canals. This one has festive holiday lights.

They like cats!

But most markers look like these.

There are some figures in the cemetery.

Some Okayama utility hole covers.

Pizza night!

The statues with red caps and/or bibs are of a dirty named Jizo who is associated with protection of children. Even the nooks in trees have markers.

And half an apple pie.

This is peach boy who I’ll share more about in a bit.

There is a lot of moss.

42
Okayama Korakuen

We spent some time at Okayama attractions. First is Korakuen garden which is considered one of the 3 best gardens in Japan.

Jessee enjoying the tea.

Sparkly!

Fun paddle boats on the river.

Bright Koi clustered around something attractive.

We came across a variety of fun signs and art walking around.

There was a nice holiday light display along one of the canals.

Peaches are a big deal here.

This is Okayama Castle. It was bombed in WWII and rebuilt in the 1960’s. It’s known as black crow castle because of its dark exterior.

We stopped for a hot drink as the weather was chilly. I liked this planter table.

Marigolds are very popular here in planters and in gardens.

Still a few leaves hanging on!

43
Himeji Castle

A busy day between two cities.

First is the historic quarter of Okayama named Kurashiki. It is centered around a canal and hilltop temple. The architecture has preserved the Edo era style with a mix of more contemporary buildings as well. There aren’t any overhead power lines.

There re a lot of shops and restaurants. The area is known for indigo dying and fabric milling, especially denim. There are a lot of jeans shops.

It’s lit at night.

A fanciful hedge.

A peach filled pancake, a chocolate filled pancake, and peach gelatin cup.

We didn’t try any denim blue food but it was available!

A boat tour of the canal.

This is super cool! An underground bike garage with a bike escalator to bring them back up.

Utility hole covers for Kurashiki.

Holiday lights down a shopping arcade corridor.

A tile roof that isn’t black or blue. The first I’ve seen like this.

Himeji utility hole covers.

The local temple.

Coffee and muffin break!

We got there just before sunset.

A treat we brought back to our lodging for dessert. Peach boy is featured on the package with his friends the talking dog, monkey and pheasant. There is a myth about Peach Boy which is easy to find on the internet and is claimed to have originated in Okayama.

Our next destination was the UNESCO world heritage site of Himeji castle in the city of Himeji. It’s called the White Ceane castle. It’s quite impressive!

44
Benesse House Museum

We have a couple days on one of the art islands in the Seto Sea: Naoshima. We took this polka dot ferry to get there. Inspired by Yayoi Kusama art on the island.

And views to outside.

The funky Onsen in the town we’re staying in.

The first museum we visited was Benesse House which was the first museum on the island. They have some fun outdoor sculptures.

Even the ferry building is arty. It looked like an Apple Store. This reflection is fun.

Video of interactive sculpture below.

The local utility hole cover.

Iconic polka dot pumpkins.

A pond with metal spheres that move with the wind and create a kind of music.video below.

This indoor area with spheres is a Yayoi Kusama \240creation.

An interesting wall made of potentially rolled up inner tubes around wood, fabric, pottery.

Bus imitating art.

Indoor driftwood.

45
Naoshima New Museum of Art

We spent a day walking around the town of Honmura on Naoshima visiting Art Houses (houses that had been abandoned and turned into art spaces) as well as the Naoshima New Museum of Art (the most recent museum to open on the island).

There is a lot to take in! First are pieces of art on buildings throughout town that are made of string glued to the building surface.

This was both a shrine and art exhibit.

The restaurant where we had dinner.

It had a glass block stairway.

Many had really beautiful noren cloth entryway curtains.

A fin mailbox.

Outlines in small white shells. I pickup the phone but no one was on the line….

An exhibit the entryways of different homes the artist has lived in throughout the years.

Great signage.

There were a lot of cats!

Jessee trying to make friends with a local cat who wasn’t in the mood.

There were some lovely doorways to homes.

A trippy exhibition with wolves running into a glass wall.

And a tunnel underneath where the stairs extended.

Which was delicious and included locally harvested seaweed.

A corridor in the New Museum of Art

Coffee shop sign.

View looking out the tunnel to the entry.

46
クイントハウス直島 Quaint House Naoshima

A bit more wandering around Naoshima. Something interesting around every corner. There are streets that accommodate cars, but the majority of paths through town look like this. From before cars existed.

Departure view from the ferry. Pumpkin, island and people pruning trees.

Ferry deck.

Neighborhood shrine.

I finally came across the source!

We had dinner at a Snow Peak store that has a cafe. Hence the titanium drink ware.

These buoy frogs are all over.

Optical illusion window screen and cat.

Raw materials upstairs.

The view from our hotel looking toward the Osaka airport which is basically its own island.

Can art!

Springy fauna in a park.

Utility hole cover near our hotel. Ginkgo leaves.

Our hotel and a Ferris wheel.

A pedal merry-go-round!

A bubble building to house bikes and scooters of folks visiting the port area.

Fun restaurant window.

Utility hole cover in Uno where the ferry docks and we catch a series of trains back to Osaka.

47
Yonaha North Beach

We transitioned to the Okinawan island of Miyakojima. The Okinawan islands are about the same latitude as Hawaii with a similar climate. We met up with Jessee’s sister Laura and rented a car for our first driving in Japan so far.

One of the long bridges below that connects Miyakojima with a few close by islands.

Many buildings and houses have two lion figurines guarding the entrance. One has an open mouth and the other has a closed mouth as they are saying different sounds in a mantra. There are a lot of different styles.

Local utility hole cover.

There are some fun tropical plants.

Ice cream!

A really lovely sunset.

Local art at our first restaurant.

Jessee and Laura enjoying some freshly squeezed sugarcane juice. It seems like 90% of the island is dedicated to sugarcane growing.

Lighthouse on the peninsula.

First dinner of grilled rice ball, red sweet potato croquettes and Okinawan pancake.

Dinner at a cargo container food court.

There is a lot of coral around the islands and some beaches are covered in it.

Even the lions love ice cream…

Lunch of shrimp.

Interesting limestone boulders off a long peninsula.

This sign at the beach makes swimming seem pretty daunting!

Interesting boulder on the beach that looks like it has fingerprints.

These are called sea beans here, also sea grapes. They are little balls of seaweed goodness!

Funny that a cat is sitting in front of this poster.

And a local pork belly specialty.

48
Miyako Shrine

Jessee and Laura went snorkeling while I took a walk around town.

Plant life.

A couple typical buildings.

Post dinner ice cream 😀

Miyakojima Temple.

Beach walk.

A spring.

Snack!

49
Irabu Island

Our final full day on Miyakojima. We enjoyed some viewpoints, some lion-dogs and some food!

This is the observation tower looking back across the bridge we crossed to Irabu island.

The view.

Fried fish.

Shrine guardians.

A local kind of cake doughnut/ fritter with sweet potato mochi inside.

Our next observation tower on Kurima Island.

Sashimi.

Observation tower guardian.

Instead of putting the statues at their gate this home painted them on the wall on either side of the gate.

The view from the observation tower.such amazing hues of blue!

A couple murals.

Really delicious dinner! Squid ink soba and salad.

Beef nigiri.

50
Sabichi Cave

We transitioned to Ishigaki island, the farthest south that we will be going in Japan.

Looking toward the north of the island.

On the grocery store shelves…

Some interesting food options! Crepe combinations I haven’t seen before!

The beach area where a cave exit is.

Looking back to the entry.

We visited one of the limestone caves here that ultimately has an exit at the beach. This is the entry.

Jungle plants.

A delicious lunch of ramen and tempura after we arrived.

There are lots of Shisa here too.

51
Shiraho Coral Village

We’ve spent some time getting to know the neighborhood we’re staying in and seeing some plants and various critters along the way.

These are the utility hole covers of Ishigaki so far.

And great beverages and sweets.

So much sugar cane!

Plant layers.

Random vending machine… different cuts of beef!

A friendly goat.

This is one of the coziest cafes we’ve been to in our trip. Such a relaxing setting.

Lots of things blooming.

Neighborhood cat.

Which is used in walls around the neighborhood. They are said to withstand typhoons.

A palm forest on the island.

Palmcone!

Calabash tree.

A unique roof design.

Coral on the local beach.

52
Yoneko-yaki Pottery

Ishigaki island has a number of artists producing textiles, pottery, sculpture and music.

We drove along some beautiful bays.

Ishigaki has mountains which is different than Miyakojima which is mainly flat.

In our wanderings we came across a couple critters. First a beautiful bird called a crested serpent eagle.

Then we had a great dinner at a neighborhood tavern. Below is a snack of agadashi tofu.

From left to right: chocolate and coconut, mugwort and black sesame, butterfly pea flower and cinnamon dragon.

And a vegetable and wheat gluten stir fry. It was all delicious!

And got to see the sunset.

Fried fish.

With fun flavors.

On the way we found a dairy with an ice cream shop.

A small waterfall.

We visited a pottery studio and sculpture park that was different than anywhere else we’ve been. These are huge sculptures and appear to be made of concrete. The studio has a lot of small sculptures focused primarily on the shisa lion/dogs but the sculpture park has a lot of other imaginative creatures!

Meat skewers - the round ones are quail eggs wrapped in pork.

Also a cat that was equally chill on the beach or in the jungle.

A dairy with a view.

Holiday origami.

53
Iriomote-jima

We visited Iriomote island for the day via several transportation methods.

First, we saw these gorgeous hues of blue ocean via ferry.

Where we had a great buffet lunch.

Saw butterflies.

Then headed back across to Iriomote.

There is an endangered wild cat found only on this island.

Which had swings on the deck.

A bougainvillea greenhouse.

We had taco rice. An Okinawan specialty which is exactly what it sounds like.

Brown sugar ice cream break before getting back on the ferry.

While being serenaded by the cart driver.

Sunset from our dinner location.

Saw disgruntled cat Santas.

Have ice cream colored by flower petals.

Then we took a bus to get to the most unique transport of our trip, water buffalo carts across to another island called Yubu Island.

So there are a lot of cat themed things. Including bathroom signs.

And water buffalo off the clock.

Then we took one of these boats up a river to see mangrove forests.

54
Kabira Bay

One of our nephews has arrived and we spent time seeing more of Ishagaki including some truly spectacular shave ice - purple potato, strawberry and mint chocolate chip.

Finally, we went on a night jungle tour and saw lots and lots of insects including a stick bug.

Fanciful observation tower.

And turtles!

This is one of my favorite vehicles so far, 3/4 car, and 1/4 truck.

The islands only species of snake, which happens to be venomous.

Fish.

Neighborhood cat scrutiny.

And coconut crabs, which look a bit too much like spiders for my comfort. There were plenty of alarmingly large spiders as well. I think I’ve checked that box and can let the jungle night creatures go about their business in peace from here on out…

The coral used in the walls is captivating. Reefs are not being destroyed to make these walls.The island base layer is 70% old coral from over millennia. Its everywhere.

We opted for yakiniku which involves cooking various meats and vegetables on a grill inset in the table.

As well as the cutest little bakery in a house.

We visited another cave which extends for several kilometers.

Another unique Spam item.

A new to us utility hole cover with the serpent eagle on it.

Including some clams of unusual size.

Lots of interesting plants.

We walked around the neighborhood we’ve been staying in a bit more and found more Shisa.

We went on a glass bottom boat tour in Kabira bay which has a lot of coral reef.

55
Kouri Island

We’ve arrived on Okinawa Island and added Jessee’s mom to the mix!

The airport has dozens and dozens of beautiful potted orchids along the concourses we walked through. They’re very pretty!

A bridge that crosses to an adjacent small island.

The view from the park across the street from the house.

Not as elaborate.

It was a windy and rainy day.

Ice cream break! Salty milk with caramel and sweet potato with sweet potato chips.

They have self driving cars for folks to ride in from the observation tower parking area to the tower entrance.

Another distinct observation tower.

The bridge from this side.

Very elaborate Shisa.

But the water was still beautiful hues.

One of the biggest bougainvillea I’ve ever seen!

Ready for some observing!

The house we’re staying in over the Christmas holiday.

The holiday Shisa at the rental car pick up area.

56
Ogimi Village

Some days are mainly about food 😀.

We visited a very cute little coffee shop/farm located on the north of the island.

Bright table arrangement.

And a cat that wanted to be friends.

With delicious coffee.

Daikon at a rest stop vegetable market.

And one that didn’t want to be friends.

And a house down the street.

Very compact and sweet.

Smiley bricks.

A tea shop next door.

More flowers at the entry.

Still on the lookout for unique mailboxes.

A hanging Shisa.

A couple murals on the drive.

The set menu.

The explanation of each item.

We had lunch at a cafe that serves a plate lunch made up of many Okinawan dishes. It was a serene space.

57
Southeast Botanical Gardens

Busy day visiting an Awamori (Okinawan Sake) distillery, a Ryuku cultural park and a botanical garden holiday illumination.

This is one of the buildings at the Helios Distillery. Traditional Awamori is made in large clay jars like these.

Very high stepping drummers!

Vending machine of the week! It dispenses frozen tshirts to cool the purchaser down on hot days.

This jar had an interesting reflection in water inside.

A standoff between a distillery cat and Shisa.

The night illumination was really well done!

There were a couple sinks made of very large clam shells.

Some Awamori is aged in oak barrels.

Ice cream and pancake break!

The botanical gardens are impressive. This is a palm avenue.

Cute bottle label.

The Ryuku are the people who have lived on the Okinawan islands through many occupations including the US, and they are now part of Japan. They have a distinct culture with unique music, dance, language, spiritual beliefs and foods. We visited a cultural park and attended a couple performances of music and dance.